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You only live once! So, go ahead and be seduced by the world's most sensational city: Paris!

Article by Anne Freund Rubin
Photos by Don Conrad - Paris Photography

Ah, Paris, in the springtime. Anytime! I don't know about you, but I'll go any chance I get!

The last time I was in France, it was a whirlwind different-hotel-every-night bus marathon. That's no way to travel, but I did get to sample the highlights of France - from Omaha Beach to the Loire Valley, from Mont-Saint-Michel to Monaco - and I did so for a reason. I got to glimpse it all on fast-forward so that I could decide where to come for a more leisurely trip the next time.

And Paris, the "City of Lights," won out.

"Every man has two countries, and one of them is France."
-Benjamin Franklin

Dreams of strolling down the elegant Avenue des Champs-Elysees, or sipping a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe and watching the world go by, swirled in my head.

I decided to stay in the heart of the city but away from the main tourist areas, so I cranked up my computer and, on the first try, on www.expedia.com, discovered the delightful little hotel, Les Trois Poussins (15 rue Clauzel), situated in the Quartier Saint-Georges, "a little village in the middle of Paris."

Their self-description - "a place dedicated to intimacy and savoir-vivre" sounded perfect! Besides, it is in walking distance of the Opera de Paris Garnier. This is where my all-time favorite, Gaston Leroux's "Phantom of the Opera" is supposed to have taken place.

WALK around this grand and elegant city, and you'll soon perish the popular theory that residents are rude to tourists. If you greet them with a cheerful "bon jour!" (or "bon soir" at night), you'll be in for a pleasant surprise. Even feeble attempts at the french language are appreciated wherever you go.

While I wanted to see the main attractions in Paris, I wanted to experience some off-the-beaten-path treasures from a unique perspective, as well.
My first discovery was a real treasure trove right near my hotel - a quaint antique shop with very unusual collectibles.

The next off-beat experience was to travel through Paris by boat. After all, the romantic River Seine meanders through, and that is the heart and soul of Paris. Distances are measured from the Seine, street numbers determined by it, and it divides the city between the north side, the Right Bank, and the more famous Left Bank.
There are many traditional sightseeing Seine cruises, and these are especially romantic and beautiful at night, when the city sparkles like a million jewels.

Getting around was perfect on the Botabus - a water shuttle service with eight stops, which runs every 25 minutes, and allows you to hop off and on where you please.
I boarded the Botabus at the Musee d'Orsay after a fantastic viewing of the breath-stopping art there, ranging from paintings by Monet, Gaugin, Van Gogh, Cezanne and Talouse-Lautrec, to the sculptures of Rodin and Degas.

It is a veritable "Who's Who" of the art world, from 1848 through 1914, and I found it even more memorable than the majestic Louvre because of its manageable size and smaller crowds.

Of course, the building itself is magnificent and retains its beauty as the turn-of-the-century Orleans train terminal.

This area, called the Left Bank, has always been considered Bohemian, and is the intellectual home of the Sorbonne, filled with philosophers, writers, musicians and artists.

To experience the ambiance of the literary haunts of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Bouvier, stop by the Cafe de Flore, or the Les Deux Magots, for coffee and delicious pastries, or wine, cheese and great chewy, French bread.

THE FIRST time around, I decided to relax with a peaceful ride around all the boat's stops - the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysees, Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre, St. Germain des-Paris, Hotel de Ville (City Hall), Notre Dame and Jardin des Plantes.

My first stop: Avenue des Champs-Elysees, disembarking at Paris' most beautiful bridge - Pont Alexandre III, where the horizon is presided over by the magnificent gold roof of the Dome Church, where Napoleon is buried.

I made my way up Avenue Winston Churchill, past the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, to the Champs-Elysees.

You can spend an entire day, maybe more, on this majestic and fashionable stretch with the Place de la Concorde at one end and the Arc de Triomphe anchoring the other. The fashionable boutiques, grand hotels, restaurants, stores - and the many languages spoken and cultures present here - make it one of the most dizzying, cosmopolitan avenues anywhere!

From the Place de la Concorde, head in the opposite direction from the Arc de Triomphe, and you go through the Jardein des Tuileries to the Louvre. However, before turning off the Champs-Elysee, duck into Rue Matignon. There's a wonderful cafe, Le Matignon, where - to top off the delicious meal - I had a most luscious dessert of poached pears, wrapped in crepes, tied with vanilla beans, and delicately flavored with cream, raspberry and cinnamon.

This is also a great place to people-watch, a pastime we rarely have in American cities, and the horizon here is filled with memorable sights, including the Eiffel Tower.
After your treat, stroll along the tree-lined walkways or relax on the benches beside the many fountains in the Jardein. This is a marvelous time to soak in the sun and take time to remind yourself why you're on vacation!

NO TRIP to Paris is complete for an art aficionado without a visit to the Musee du Louvre. I recommend a Museum Pass, which will get you past the long lines. Also, allow yourself a full day with your walking shoes on!

The sheer magnitude and opulence of the buildings, of the Cathedral of Notre Dame which date back to medieval times, is awe-inspiring. Originally built as a fortress in 1190 to defend against Viking raids, it later served as a royal palace. In your mind's eye you can see the legions of horsemen going on parade through the vast courtyard!

If you're lucky enough to visit on Sunday afternoon, you're likely to be treated to a recital on the largest organ in France. With the sunlight streaming through the famous stained-glass rose windows, the inspiration is magnificent. Catholic Mass is celebrated several times a day, and make sure you visit the garden and the fountain to the east. Rest and reflect here, amidst the gargoyles and Gothic spires and flying buttresses.

Meanwhile, on the west side, don't be surprised if you're almost flattened by expert in-line skaters!

In the shadow of Charlemagne's statue, you will witness some of the most adroit, aerobatic, physically impossible in-line skating. I'm not kidding - backwards, vertical, horizontal, flips, you name it!

Paris is home to so many significant historical sites that it's easy to overlook the more modern, trend-setting sites. One of these is the Centre d'Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou.

It's like a building turned inside-out - escalators, elevators, air and water ducts, and even the massive steel struts that make up the building's skeleton, are all on the outside.

Its bold, vibrant colors make quite a statement against the surrounding Gothic architecture. The museum contains works by Picasso, Matisse, Pollock, Calder and others.

TRAVELING in Europe has been made much easier with the introduction of a common currency, the Euro (about at par with the U.S. dollar at press time). And, incidentally, by the other "euro" the Eurostar supertrain. Hitting a top speed of 225 mph, it makes London a day trip (through the Chunnel under the English Channel)! Other great European cities are just a couple of hours away, too, by France's ultra-high-speed TGV trains.
But, whatever your tastes, Paris will keep you busy and intrigued for quite a while. There's just no other city like it!

Be sure to duck into its fantastic department stores - Galaries Lafayette, Au Printemps-Haussmann (tip: you can get 10% discount coupons and a fashion-show invitation at most hotels). Other giants are Au Bon Marche and La Samaritaine, while haute couture houses line or are near the Rue du Faubourg-St-Honore, on the Right Bank.

If eccentric or eclectic is more your style, head for the fabulous flea market, Marche aux Puces de St.-Ouen.

If your preference is "charming" or "quaint," window shop the "galleries" or "passages." These are early-19th century shopping arcades with glass roofs, and typically house small shops selling everything from rare books and art supplies to designer jewelry and funky clothes and shoes.

The most charming of all is Gallerie Vivienne, off Rue Vivienne. Besides a mixture of quaint shops, it also has a delightful tea room and mosaic floors.

Some of my favorite places to browse, shop and photograph (and pick up a picnic) are the open-air markets along the river banks. The colors, smells, sounds, and the sight of fresh fruit, vegetables and fresh flowers are absolutely delightful! (The people buying and selling are almost as colorful as what's available for purchase and, yes, they photograph well, too.)

And when your feet get weary, not to worry. Sit down with a glass of wine at a sidewalk café, listen to the music, catch the invigorating sights, and enjoy the moment. After all, every moment counts here, in the world's most romantic city.